Itinerary: Roncesvalles to Logroño on foot
Itinerary: Roncesvalles – Logroño
If you’ve never considered doing the Camino de Santiago, this is a good moment to reflect; we invite you to live a wonderful adventure. There are many reasons to do it; each kilometer of the Camino has its own magic. Every stage has its own history, secrets, curiosities, surrounded by spectacular landscapes or the very personality of the territory, making many of these stages remain etched in the pilgrim’s memory.
The French Way is, by far, the most famous and traveled route. It runs from Roncesvalles to the very Cathedral of Santiago.
Today we choose the first section of the French Way, specifically from Roncesvalles to Logroño. It is a very common itinerary among pilgrims, who enjoy the spectacular mountain landscapes of the Pyrenees that combine in perfect harmony with the extensive vineyards so characteristic of La Rioja.
Our itinerary consists of 7 stages, in which the pilgrim covers approximately a total of 135 Kms.
Roncesvalles – Zubiri ( 22 Km)
The starting point is Roncesvalles. An ancient town in the Navarrese Pyrenees, chosen by pilgrims to begin the Camino de Santiago in Spain. A natural pass in the Pyrenees where the Battle of Roncesvalles (778) took place, one of the most painful defeats of Charlemagne’s Frankish army. Upon entering the town, its medieval monumental artistic complex stands out, such as the Collegiate Church of Santa María la Real, the tomb of King Sancho VII, the Fort, and the former pilgrims’ hospital.
It is a stage that runs through the gentle profiles of the Navarrese Pyrenees, mixed with green meadows and humid beech, oak, fir, and holly forests of the Sorginaritzaga forest, which in the local language means “oak grove of the witches”. It is a typical mid-mountain route, with trails, dirt roads, and rocky sections. In the 16th century, the Sorginaritzaga forest hosted the celebration of multiple witch sabbaths (burnings of people accused of practicing witchcraft driven by the Inquisition Tribunal). At the foot of the Camino there is a replica of the White Cross, planted by the Church to purify the area, which divides the municipal boundaries of Roncesvalles and Burguete; past the latter and just before the N-120 leaves Espinal, you take a well-signposted left turn. Here begins the climb up to the Mezkiritz pass, the most demanding stretch of the ascent; a few meters further on, we reach a headstone dedicated to Our Lady of Roncesvalles where flowers are usually not lacking; past the town of Lintzoáin, we begin the ascent to the Alto del Erro, which is not continuous, and the combination of steep ramps with downhill sections makes its conquest difficult. The difficulty is compensated by the beauty of the landscape. To finish, the descent to Zubiri is one of the hardest and most dangerous stretches of the entire French Way. Some slopes are like cliffs and the surface does not help, since stones of all sizes and shapes combine, complicating the descent even more. It is advisable to pay close attention. The descent from the pass to Zubiri is 4 kilometers in which it is necessary to proceed with great caution and stealth.
The next stage of our itinerary is Zubiri – Pamplona (20 Km)
In this stage the route runs alongside the Arga River, accompanying us from the exit of Zubiri to the gates of Pamplona. After the previous itinerary, laden with demands, this day lends itself to enjoying a small breather without ceasing to advance toward our goal, “Santiago de Compostela”; this time the Camino ends in a big city: Pamplona, the world capital of festivities, where you can regain strength by trying the traditional pinchos and Navarre wines. Visiting the cloister of Santa María la Real, walking along Calle Estafeta (known for the San Fermín festival) is a great reward for the pilgrim.
After crossing the Bridge of Rabia to the left bank of the Arga River, the Camino descends again along a narrow path with a very irregular surface; after a stretch on the road we reach the Magna company, which has been exploiting the area’s rich magnesite deposit for more than half a century. Sheltered by countless beeches, it leads to the tiny towns of Illaratz (fountain) and Eskirotz; we continue along small stretches of asphalt, dirt, cobblestones, and even gravel, but all along the banks of the Arga, leading to the gates of Larrasoaña; on the other side of the river we cross the Bridge of the Bandits (according to chronicles of the time, a hotspot for all kinds of wrongdoers during the 14th century). Upon leaving Larrasoaña we make a small ascent along a gravel track to the hamlet of Akerreta; from here, the Camino to Zuriain is completed through a riverside forest dominated by oaks and where the path comes right up to the river. Outside the shelter of the vegetation, there is an uncomfortable stretch along the (N-135) road and then back to the other bank of the river before arriving in Irotz, which once had a pilgrims’ hospital. The small church of San Pedro still stands. The next settlement on the Jacobean route is Zabaldika; at this point the pilgrim faces two variants that will merge again a couple of kilometers ahead. Along the traditional Camino de Santiago you enter Arleta and, after topping a small hill, descend to the Trinity of Arre, undoubtedly one of the most spectacular points of the stage. We arrive in Burlada (2.8 kilometers to Pamplona) and from here we access the Navarrese capital via the Magdalena Bridge, of Romanesque origin.
Pamplona – Puente la Reina (19 Km)
The next stop will be Puente la Reina, a town with a great Jacobean tradition, but first the pilgrim must climb the Alto del Perdón. At 770 meters above sea level and with just over half the stage covered, it is a magnificent viewpoint: behind we see Pamplona and the Pyrenees; ahead, the vast Navarre plain; it will be a good time for a rest while contemplating the now-mythical sculpture in homage to the pilgrims. Once in Puente la Reina, the pilgrim can delight in the architecture of this medieval town, especially the Romanesque bridge over the Arga River, one of the most beautiful and stately Romanesque examples on the Jacobean route.
We leave Pamplona and reach Cizur Menor (18.3 kilometers to Puente la Reina), which is ascended via a pedestrian lane next to the road. Leaving this town, the pilgrim begins to gain height gradually through a green and yellow desert up to the entrance to Zariquiegui, from where the ascent to the feared Alto del Perdón begins along a dirt and stone track. The Alto del Perdón is one of the most famous points on the Camino de Santiago; there is a wind farm installed on its ridge; the climb, only 260 meters of elevation gain, is very gradual, only somewhat steep in the final stretch, while the descent is forceful and rocky. The wind will be our faithful companion; one of the great symbols of the Camino de Santiago is the sculpture by Vicente Galbete, who immortalized in sheet metal a peloton of pilgrims on their way to Compostela. On one of the figures that make up the work you can read: "Where the path of the wind crosses that of the stars." From the summit there are spectacular views. The descent to Uterga is another of the critical points on the Camino de Santiago. The surface is very irregular; it is advisable to take extreme caution. From there to Muruzábal, among the cereal fields, the Muruzábal palace stands out, as does the church of San Esteban, straddling Gothic and Baroque; we recommend a detour to Eunate to contemplate the church of Santa María de Eunate. The access to Puente la Reina is along the left side of the N-111, where you arrive at a statue paying homage to the pilgrims and recalling the union of the Ways. «And from here all the roads to Santiago become one».
Puente la Reina- Estella (19 Km)
At 19 kilometers, Estella-Lizarra awaits us, another monumental city born from the Camino de Santiago. Of Romanesque origin, Estella treasures palaces, stately homes, churches, convents, bridges, and beautiful buildings; it is a stage that does not present much difficulty; pilgrims will only have to face a hard but short climb, crossing vineyards and olive trees that will take center stage in the following days; they will pass, unhurried but steadily, through beautiful enclaves with a clear Jacobean flavor, as well as relive history over an ancient Roman road and medieval bridges, which the Codex Calixtinus immortalized with dark legends that will enliven this walk.
We say goodbye to Puente la Reina (685 kilometers to Santiago), the starting point of this stage. The itinerary passes a small rest area, and after approaching the Arga River on flat, uncomplicated terrain, a tough climb follows—arguably the most complicated stretch of the day—leading to the vicinity of the A-12, from whose height you can already see Mañeru, the first stop of the stage, a town with a wine tradition and renowned taverns. After passing a 16th-century wayside cross at its entrance, passing the cemetery, and following the path, the route faces a beautiful stretch of almost three kilometers that runs between plots of cereals, vineyards, and olive trees and from which, once you no longer lose sight, we reach Cirauqui, the next destination, perched on a hill, a beautiful town, one of the most charming along the Jacobean route in Navarre; with its steep streets, pilgrims will pass through a gate of the old wall to enter its beautiful streets and squares. The Camino de Santiago uses, in some sections of this stage, an ancient Roman road whose main remains are still visible here; walkers will approach, between rows of cypresses, the Dorrondoa bridge and, following the route, they cross the Alloz canal viaduct, and shortly afterwards, the Jacobean route already runs along the Salado River. The route continues and leads walkers to Lorca (9.3 kilometers to Estella), a town closely linked to the Jacobean route, which already in the 13th century housed a pilgrims’ hospital and its church of San Salvador (12th century). The path runs through a farming area dotted with hills, reaching Villatuerta, the prelude to Estella (4.6 kilometers away). The route leaves the enclave by the Camino de Estella to continue along a flat, curving path that approaches the hermitage of San Miguel (10th century), the only remnant of an old medieval monastery and one of the first pre-Romanesque churches in the western Pyrenees. The stage enters its final stretch and already heads for Estella. Pilgrims will only have to cover a path, cross the Ega River over a footbridge, and follow its course to that historic town.
Estella – Los Arcos (20,6 Km)
Demanding stage. The route, with continuous ups and downs, requires effort and, above all, patience. The day runs through city, forest, mid-mountain, and near-desert; remember to refill your canteen at the fountain at the junction with the Urbiola road and pace yourself; on the hottest days the lack of shade makes resting difficult. The trade-off is the spectacular landscape and landmarks of great Jacobean tradition, such as the famous Fountain of Wine of Irache (next to the spectacular medieval monastery of the same name), the beautiful village of Villamayor (with one of the most impressive Romanesque churches on the way in Navarrese lands), or the obligatory visit to the house of Pablito the stick-maker, in Azqueta, where you can pick up one of the hazelwood walking staffs that Don Pablo has been making for pilgrims since 1986.
Leaving Estella, you have to return to the other bank of the Ega River and head south along San Nicolás and Camino de Logroño streets. It’s a long farewell, and next to a road we turn right and enter the municipality of Ayegui; after passing a fountain the pilgrim encounters the Irache Wineries. Beneath a carving of Saint James, two taps emerge. From one flows water and from the other, wine. A few meters ahead is the monastic complex of Irache, known to have existed since the year 958. In the first half of the 11th century a pilgrims’ hospital was built, probably the oldest in Navarre. Since 1887 it has been a national monument. Leaving Irache, the Camino, of dirt and gravel, continues climbing until reaching a junction where two different routes to Los Arcos are indicated. The original runs through Azqueta; the other, through Luquin. The vast majority go through Azqueta, along a leg-breaking path surrounded by kermes oaks, interrupted only by a secondary, little-traveled road. Upon leaving Azqueta, the Camino descends and then turns to begin a one-and-a-half-kilometer ascent to Villamayor de Monjardín along a narrow, poorly maintained path, surrounded by vineyards; before reaching the top, on the right-hand side, is the Fuente de los Moros, a few meters before arriving in Villamayor de Monjardín. The Fuente de los Moros is a cistern (underground water reservoir) dating to the early 13th century, built to quench the thirst of pilgrims. It is very well preserved. Keep in mind that from Villamayor de Monjardín (10.3 kilometers to Los Arcos) it is not possible to obtain provisions. The descent to Los Arcos—as could not be otherwise—begins from Villamayor de Monjardín along a steep track next to a vineyard; once at the bottom, a long stretch of endless straights across the Navarre fields begins. Only a couple of crossings with secondary roads break the monotony.
Los Arcos - Logroño (28 Km)
We say farewell to Navarre and enter La Rioja; this stage is divided into three well-differentiated sections: From Los Arcos to Torres del Río, along comfortable dirt tracks; from Torres del Río to Viana, with rougher terrain and some steep descents, the path becomes more difficult; and finally, from Viana to Logroño, along tracks and pedestrian lanes through industrial areas. Logroño is the capital and first city on the Way in La Rioja.
We walk along the Odrón River; we leave Los Arcos along a gravel track with an upward trend, leaving behind the chapel of San Lázaro; soon the track widens and the gravel gives way to dirt, on a track that, parallel to the local road, will lead the pilgrim straight to the vicinity of Sansol. In between, olive trees and farmland; the road is crossed and a yellow arrow diverts the pilgrim to the left along a cobbled rollercoaster. Under a tunnel, over a bridge, and a fountain offers a drink to the pilgrim at the gates of Torres del Río. We leave Torres del Río and the stretch to Viana is uncomfortable; the surface keeps changing; it’s not many kilometers, but the orography of the area forces you to face a tortuous, exhausting up and down; we continue walking along a path not in very good condition alongside the road; thus we arrive in Viana. From Viana to Logroño it is a comfortable walk with favorable terrain. The descent begins in Viana itself, located on top of a hill, along somewhat neglected tracks; you pass in front of a hermitage with a picnic area. You pass along a brief tree-lined walk, with favorable terrain, until reaching an industrial area, which marks the border between Navarre and the autonomous community of La Rioja. After crossing the road again, this time underneath, a comfortable path takes us to the entrance to Logroño, the capital we access through a park. We cross the Ebro by the stone bridge (from 1884, but built upon reforms of the original erected in the 11th century by Santo Domingo de la Calzada and San Juan de Ortega). Logroño is a magnificent opportunity to reconnect with the attractions of the great historic capitals: heritage, gastronomy, or the chance to replenish equipment add appeal to the end of the stage.
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