Portomarín and the Camino de Santiago
PORTOMARÍN ON THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
LOCATION:
Portomarín (in Galician, Portomarín) is a beautiful Galician town located in the province of Lugo, with approximately 1,500 inhabitants. Every year, it is visited by thousands of pilgrims on their journey along the Camino de Santiago.
HISTORY:
Portomarín is a young town, reborn from a past full of history, with a unique culture rich in heritage, symbols, and its own legend.
Back in the 2nd century, the Romans built the town’s first bridge, which connected its two districts. This bridge was later used by pilgrims, making it a key point on the Way to Santiago.
Portomarín is mentioned as early as the year 792, under the name Portumarini.
During the Middle Ages, the town gained great importance, and three knightly orders were founded there, all dedicated to providing humanitarian aid to pilgrims.
In the Codex Calixtinus, Portomarín is referred to as Pons Minea (Bridge of the Miño), marking it as an essential stop on the Camino de Santiago.
The town was relocated in 1956 to nearby Monte do Cristo due to the construction of the Belesar Reservoir. Many of its important buildings, both civil and religious, were reconstructed, most notably the Church of San Nicolás, a Romanesque church built by the Knights Hospitaller of Saint John of Jerusalem. Its stones were numbered and reassembled at the new site. The current Portomarín dates back to 1962.
CAMINO DE SANTIAGO:
Portomarín is highly significant as the end of the first stage of the French Way starting from Sarria. It is the most well-known and traveled route of all the Caminos de Santiago.
The stage from Sarria to Portomarín is characterized as being a comfortable stage, with frequent but moderate slopes, making it not too difficult. This route takes you into rural Galicia, through expansive meadows and lush forests of chestnuts and oaks, crossing countless small villages untouched by time and notable for the hospitality and kindness of their people.
In 2015, UNESCO expanded its 1993 declaration of the World Heritage Site "The Camino de Santiago" in Spain to include “Caminos de Santiago: French Way and Northern Routes in Spain.”
WHAT TO SEE...
OLD PORTOMARÍN
The old town, submerged by the reservoir. If you do the Camino in autumn, you might be lucky enough to see the ruins of its houses, the remains of the old Roman bridge, and the famous caneiros, V-shaped stone constructions used for traditional eel fishing.
STAIRCASE AND CHAPEL OF LAS NIEVES
Built using the stones of the old medieval bridge, the staircase leads to the urban center. The granite stone staircase takes you to the Chapel of Las Nieves.
The Chapel of Las Nieves was the chapel of the old hospital. According to legend, there is a curse for anyone who stops to rest halfway up the staircase, being punished with several years of bad luck in love.
CASTRO DE CASTROMAIOR
The Castro de Castromaior is one of the most important Iron Age archaeological sites in the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula. It is a fortified settlement typical of the castro culture, showcasing evidence of their way of life, their construction models based on agriculture, livestock, and fishing, as revealed by archaeological research.
PAZO OF THE COUNT OF MAZA
Dating back to the 16th century, this building, along with others, was one of the structures saved from the Belesar Reservoir. It belonged to the Count of Taboada, surnamed de la Maza, a descendant of a prominent military dynasty. Today, it serves as the town hall and is located next to the church.
CHURCH OF SAN NICOLÁS
Dating from the 12th and 13th centuries and of Gothic style, it is the most notable monument in Portomarín. Classified as a Historic-Artistic Monument, it was moved stone by stone from its original site, and today you can still see the numbering on some of the stones.
CHURCH OF SAN PEDRO
The Church of San Pedro is also classified as a Historic-Artistic Monument. Like the Church of San Nicolás, it was moved following the flooding. Its original construction dates back to the 10th century.
WHAT TO EAT...
Like all of Galicia, Portomarín is famous for its gastronomy. Don’t miss the renowned eel pie, its almond tart (similar to the Tarta de Santiago but with a unique twist), and of course, its famous aguardiente, made by the locals, who take pride in their reputation. They are so proud that they even hold a festival to promote it.
POPULAR FESTIVALS...
Popular festivals are part of the culture of our country, and they always deserve mention and special recognition.
In Portomarín, highlights include the Festa a Augardente, celebrated on Easter Sunday, Folkloric Sundays during the summer with performances by various Galician groups, and the Patron Saint Festivals, held on the first weekend of September.
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