The Maragato Villages and the Camino de Santiago
The Maragato Villages on the French Way of the Camino de Santiago
The historic region of Maragatería is located in the southwest of the province of León and is the only Spanish region named after its inhabitants, the “Maragatos.”
A unique region, just like its customs, traditions, and people, steeped in folklore, rituals, and legends that make it even more magical and mysterious.
Various origins have been attributed to the Maragatos, but no definitive conclusion has been reached. What is now the Maragatería region was once called La Somoza. Its inhabitants chose trade as a way of life, giving rise to one of their most well-known activities: arrieros (merchandise transporters). Trade was conducted between Galicia and Castile, initially using ancient Roman roads, especially the one from Astorga to Braga (Lugo), continuing along the Silver Route toward Madrid. These routes also became an integral part of the Camino de Santiago. Another important economic activity was textile craftsmanship, especially wool, a trade passed down through generations that remains significant even today.
Some of the region's villages are crossed by the French Way of the Camino de Santiago in certain stages, the most notable being from Astorga to Foncebadón.
Let’s explore the most important Maragato villages along the Jacobean Route:
Astorga, a truly beautiful town, is the capital of Maragatería. Its spectacular monumental heritage includes highlights such as the Cathedral and the Episcopal Palace, as well as its Plaza Mayor and Town Hall. Modern constructions like the peculiar and majestic Episcopal Palace, designed by the genius Antoni Gaudí, also stand out.
Castrillo de los Polvazares, the quintessential Maragato village, is a privilege to explore with its perfectly cobbled, steep streets. Wandering among the red stone houses with their large gates, patios, and stables allows visitors to savor the sought-after charm of antiquity. It is undoubtedly the best-preserved example of Maragato architecture.
El Ganso. A small, bucolic village, like many others today, it suffers from depopulation. The village church fits the humble and mystical territory, with moss-covered stones. You can also see the so-called "teitadas houses," prehistoric-era dwellings considered clear evidence of the Celtic substratum that once inhabited this vast region.
Rabanal del Camino. A stage endpoint according to the Codex Calixtinus and, along with Castrillo de los Polvazares, one of the main settlements of the arrieros. On Calle Real stands the Hermitage of San José, considered one of the best examples of Astorgan Baroque. Opposite the Monastery of San Salvador is the Parish Church of the Assumption, built in the late 12th century in Romanesque style.
As the journey through Maragatería concludes, pilgrims encounter the emblematic Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) and the village of El Acebo, marking the departure from the Maragato region into the lands of El Bierzo. This site marks the highest point of the French Way in the province of León, 1,520 meters above sea level, and the start of a descent with a 920-meter drop to Molinaseca, located in the heart of the El Bierzo region.
Foncebadón, the highest village in Maragatería, is a mountain settlement that is both charming and contradictory. Nestled in a stunning natural setting, from the Cruz de Ferro, one can see Maragatería and the vast Castilian Plateau to the south, the Teleno to the west, the Montes de León to the east, and the great depression of El Bierzo surrounded by the mountainous arc of the Galician Mountains to the north.
We cannot leave without mentioning the region’s traditional dish, which, like the villages, adopts the name that characterizes them: “Cocido Maragato.”
A traditional dish of arrieros and field workers, its peculiarity lies in that it is eaten in reverse: first the meats, then the vegetables, and finally the soup. It must include at least nine different types of meat: beef, pork shoulder, pig’s feet and ears, salted meat, lamb, goat, and bacon, along with “relleno” (made of bread, egg, garlic, and parsley), chorizo, and black pudding.
The origin of this inverted custom is debated; some say it was popularized by the arrieros who ate in transit using clay pots, but it seems more likely a practical formula for field workers, as starting with the soup would cool the pot, leaving the meats cold.
Would you like to book your Camino de Santiago?