The Pyrenees Stage, French Way
The Pyrenees Stage, French Way from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
When speaking about the Camino de Santiago, it is often associated with the French Way, overlooking the fact that in Spain alone there are several Camino de Santiago routes originating from different regions of the peninsula. Compared to other routes, this one is the most travelled and offers the best infrastructure.
Many pilgrims begin the French Way by crossing the Pyrenees on foot from Saint Jean Pied de Port, a French municipality, which takes us to Roncesvalles in the first stage.
The beautiful French town of Saint Jean Pied de Port or Donibane Garazi is located along the Nive River. Its significance in the pilgrimage route is complemented by its proximity to Ostabat, a place where three major routes in France converge (those originating in Le Puy, Limoges, and Tours).
In the Middle Ages, many pilgrims would gather in Saint Jean Pied de Port to face together the challenging ascent and subsequent descent to Roncesvalles. After crossing the Gate of Santiago, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the historical entry point for pilgrims, the path leaves the town through the central and commercial Rue d'Espagne, exiting the old walled area via a gate of the same name.
When crossing the Pyrenees, pilgrims face two options: either take the Valcarlos Pass (via the road to Roncesvalles, mandatory in winter) or climb the Roman Road, known as the "Napoleon Route", where in the early 19th century soldiers under General D’Armagnac crossed the border and stayed in Roncesvalles before continuing their march to Pamplona.
The Valcarlos Route begins by following the N-133 road, continuing to Arneguy through a shady valley alongside the river. The border with Spain is crossed at Las Ventas, before reaching Arneguy, from where the C-135 road is taken to Valcarlos. From here, the road is followed until it is left behind on the left near the Ortiga Ravine, along the Zabaleta path. This marks the beginning of a steep climb along the left bank of the Nive. The road is rejoined at the Guard’s House, leading to the Alto de Ibañeta, where the descent to Roncesvalles begins along a path, eventually arriving behind the Royal Collegiate Church of Roncesvalles.
The Napoleon Route, marked alternately with French GR signs (red and white) and yellow markers, requires tackling steep inclines calmly as it traverses the Pyrenees via the Cize Passes. After another stretch of steady ascent, the small hamlet of Honto is reached, where many pilgrims take their first break. Pilgrims will then face another demanding climb along a winding path. At the summit, a signboard recounts a passage from the Codex Calixtinus. The panoramic view from this vantage point rewards the effort endured along the Way.
Soon after, the route reaches the hostel-linked refuge of Orisson. The landscape opens with striking undulations and alpine vegetation as the path continues its steady climb to another key stop on the stage: the rocky ridge housing the Virgin of Biakorri, protector of local shepherds, adorned with various tokens left by walkers. Finally, the Lepoeder Pass, at 1,430 metres, marks the highest point of the day. From here, provided the fog does not obscure the view, the small and nearby Roncesvalles can already be seen, reached after another 5 kilometres.
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